Tiger paws pendant from Stenzhorn. |
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Petit fleur pearl necklace
from Jewelmer.
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Printemps collection earrings in
rose gold with diamonds, rhodolite,
aquamarine and citrine quartz from
Alfieri & St John. |
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Petit fleur pearl earrings from Jewelmer.
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Gold lace bracelet from Orlando
Orlandini’s Agua & Fuego Collection. |
Gruppe Ringe from Stenzhorn. |
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Pirntemps collection ring in white gold
with diamonds, blue sapphire and
blue topaz from Alfieri & St.John.
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Gold lace bracelet from Orlando
Orlandini’s Agua & Fuego Collection.
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D.A. BLYLER EXAMINES THE ISSUES
WITH BRANDING IN THE EAST AND WEST,
AND HOW IT CAN BE EFFECTIVE IN
GENERATING SALES. THE PHILOSOPHIES
FROM THE EAST AND WEST DIFFER, BUT
ARGUABLY BRANDING IS BEST DEFINED
WITHIN AN ASIAN FRAMEWORK.
EACH WAY OF LOOKING AT THE WORLD HAS ITS
STRENGTHS AND WEAKNESSES, BUT WHEN
IT COMES TO THE ISSUE OF BRANDING,
APPROACHING THE SUBJECT FROM AN
EASTERN PERSPECTIVE YIELDS STRONGER
RESULTS, ESPECIALLY OVER THE LONG-TERM.
When people talk about Asian versus
Western philosophy, it usually revolves
around the idea that the East seeks
harmony and unity, while the West
likes to separate, divide, and analyse.
Each way of looking at the world has its
strengths and weaknesses, but when
it comes to the issue of branding,
approaching the subject from an
Eastern perspective yields stronger
results, especially over the long-term.
The problem is that most Asian
companies don’t apply their Eastern
perspective to things like branding.
This is because branding is thought
to be a relatively modern Western
business practice, when in reality it
can be traced back thousands of
years to China, where early craftsmen
placed their signature marks on things
such as pottery and porcelain.
So what does taking an Eastern
approach mean when it comes to
branding? It means looking at the
issue in its organic wholeness. Just
as you cannot separate the flower
from the ground without killing it, you
cannot separate your products from
the people who make them without
harming your brand. There is an old
piece of Asian wisdom that says “what
is within is without.” This is especially
true when it comes to branding. If
the brand image you are projecting
to customers outside the company
is not in synch with the image your
employees have inside the company,
then your business is not working in
harmony; and whatever success you
may have achieved is destined to be
short-lived.
The Asian jeweller who has realized
this best is ironically a Westerner. That
person is John Hardy, who over the
past twenty years has crafted one of
the jewellery industry’s biggest success
stories. During his career, Hardy has
built a brand image centered on
traditional Bali culture and the ecology
of sustainable luxury. It is an image
that isn’t only promoted outside the
company via John Hardy jewellery; it is
cultivated inside the company too by
its internal business practices.
At John Hardy’s manufacturing
compound in Bali, one doesn’t
find the typical cold assembly line
manufacturing rooms which (let’s face
it) are all too typical in Asia. Instead,
Hardy has created an artisans’ studio
complex, made of natural materials,
which are surrounded by a large
organic farm to feed nearly 1,000
workers. The company also educates
its workers in sustainable living practices
and has pioneered an eco-advertising
program that offsets the carbon
emissions of its corporate advertising
with bamboo trees planted on the
island of Nusa Penida. Although Hardy
sold the company to his business
associate Damien Dernoncourt in 2007,
Dernocourt is committed to running
the company under the ideals that
Hardy and his wife established - wisely
understanding that the John Hardy
brand within must continue to reflect
the John Hardy brand without.
IF THE BRAND IMAGE YOU ARE PROJECTING TO
CUSTOMERS OUTSIDE THE COMPANY IS NOT
IN SYNCH WITH THE IMAGE YOUR EMPLOYEES
HAVE INSIDE THE COMPANY, THEN YOUR
BUSINESS IS NOT WORKING IN HARMONY.
So, if your company has already
started external branding activities, now
is the time to start asking yourself how
well your company reflects this image
internally. And if you haven’t started
external branding yet but are thinking
about a brand launch, today is the
day to start working to ensure that your
new brand is fully understood by your
employees and is in synch with your
in-house environment.
Never forget that every employee
affects in some way the manner in
which the world encounters your
brand. It is not just the quality and style
of your fine jewellery that impacts how
your brand is perceived by customers.
Every piece of correspondence, every
business conversation, every media
production, and every telephone call
and email has the power to either
enhance or diminish perceptions of
your company brand.
When it comes to the jewellery industry,
every successful brand image contains
two things: consistency and attention
to detail. Everything that you do
should be as expertly performed as
the jewellery you create. This would
seem obvious. Yet with Asian jewellery
firms we often find English websites
riddled with mistakes; salespeople
with insufficient training and foreign
language skills; photography that’s
clearly below standard; and trade fair
showcases with smudges, nicks, and
dings. First impressions are, as they say,
everything. And, whether it is fair or not,
if you are sloppy in any of the ways your
company communicates your brand, it
will make potential customers think you
are going to be sloppy in your jewellery
making and services.
WHEN IT COMES TO
THE JEWELLERY INDUSTRY,
EVERY SUCCESSFUL BRAND
IMAGE CONTAINS TWO
THINGS: CONSISTENCY AND
ATTENTION TO DETAIL.
Moving beyond consistency and detail,
we arrive at the “style” issues of your
brand, those unique aspects that give
it its flavor and memorability. More and
more Asian workers no longer want to
be working for just a paycheck. They
want to be working for a company
that has style, a company that stands
for something. They want to feel good
about what they do and the company
they work for. Therefore you need to
look for ways to make all your staff feel
like they are part of your external brand
image. For example, decorate the
walls of the offices and manufacturing
studio with framed copies of any ads
you’ve place or any editorial coverage
that your company has received;
reward employee performance with
gifts of company jewellery; and create
schemes where all employees can earn
an opportunity to buy your products
well below the retail cost.
Remember that you are in the luxury
business. That means pampering your
employees with a little luxury too.
D.A. Blyler is a freelance brand strategist and
communications consultant, specialising in the
fine jewellery industry. He lives in Thailand.
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