Thistle & Bee Bamboo and
Pink Sapphire Bangle. |
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La Putri 4.65ct Unheated Intense
Ceylon Padparascha Sapphire
with Fancy Pink Diamonds |
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Mirari Blue Sapphire peacock earrings. |
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Blue Sapphire Earrings from Larry Jewelry. |
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Thistle & Bee Bamboo
and Sapphire Pendants. |
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Tayma Sapphire, moonstone
and diamond pendant. |
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La Putri Multicoloured Sapphire Ring –
Sri Lanka & Madagascar Gems. |
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Blue Sapphire Pendant Necklace
from Larry Jewelry. |
|
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THIS LEGENDARY GEM HAS MANY STORIES TO TELL,
FROM BEING A NATIONAL TREASURE TO BEING A
SYMBOL OF COURTLY ROMANCE. BASIL LEONG FILLS
US IN ON SAPPHIRES, THEIR ORIGINS AND TREATMENT
TO BECOME PRECIOUS PIECES OF JEWELLERY.
Introduction
Sapphires are one of the most popular
gemstones in the world today. The word
sapphire is thought to have originated
from either the Greek word sapphiros,
which means beloved of Saturn or the
ancient Latin term sapphirus, meaning
blue. No matter where the term was
derived from, sapphires have their
place in history. Sapphires are also
featured prominently in some of the
British Crown Jewels, such as the St
Edwards Crown, which was used for
the coronation of Queen Elizabeth II
and the Imperial State Crown.
Sapphires, have in recent years,
become a symbol for love. Since Prince
Charles proposed to Lady Diana in
the early 1980s with a blue sapphire
ring, sapphires have begun to replace
diamonds as a popular choice for
engagement rings.
Colour
Sapphires belong to the mineral
species corundum. Sapphires come
in almost every colour of the rainbow.
When the colour of the corundum is
red, it is called a ruby. Corundums are
composed mainly of aluminum oxide.
When it is free from other elements,
sapphires are colourless. Blue sapphires
are formed when trace elements of
iron and titanium are introduced to
the crystal structure. When chromium
is added to the original mix, it
becomes red. The different colours of
sapphire are formed by varying the
concentration of each trace element,
as well as colour centres. Sapphires,
other than blue, are commonly
known as fancy sapphires. Fancy
sapphires can be categorised into
yellow and orange, pink and purple,
padparadscha, green and colourless
and black. Each category has its
own colour range.
Sources
Historically, the three main areas in
the world that produces some of the
finest blue sapphires are Kashmir,
Myanmar and Sri Lanka.
Of the three, blue sapphires from
Kashmir are considered the rarest
and most desirable. The quantity of
sapphire produced from the Kashmir
mines is very low. In fact, the mines
are only actively mined between
1881 to 1887. Most of Kashmir sapphires,
that if you are fortunate to come across
today, were mined during that period.
Production has almost stopped since
then. Kashmir sapphires, if cut correctly
and properly, exhibit intense blue
colour unlike any others.
Some of the best quality sapphires we
come across these days are mined
in Myanmar, specifically from the Mogok mine. These sapphires exhibit
strong intense blue under all lighting
conditions. The Mogok mines has been
producing top quality sapphires for
the past 800 years. Sapphires from this
region usually command high prices.
Sri Lanka produces some of the finest
quality and largest blue sapphires.
Many historians believe that blue
sapphires were first mined in Sri Lanka.
After 2000 years of mining, Sri Lanka
is still a major supplier of blue sapphires
to the rest of the world. The blue
sapphires mined in Sri Lanka display
excellent brilliance and saturation.
The sapphires mined in Sri Lanka
tend to be big. Most of the finest blue
sapphire over 100cts are from Sri Lanka.
Sri Lanka is also a major source of
fancy sapphires.
Other sources of sapphires include
Thailand, Cambodia, Australia,
Madagascar, China, Vietnam, Laos
and Nigeria. Most of these sources
produce commercial quality sapphires.
They usually have to be treated before
they are set in mass market jewellery.
HISTORICALLY, THE THREE MAIN AREAS IN
THE WORLD THAT PRODUCES SOME OF THE
FINEST BLUE SAPPHIRES ARE KASHMIR,
MYANMAR AND SRI LANKA.
Treatments
Up to 95 percent of blue sapphires
are treated in some way. Sapphires
are treated to improve their colour
and clarity. The most common form
of treatment is by heat. Sapphires are
heated to temperatures ranging
from 450oC to 1900oC for durations
ranging from one hour to 14 days and
cooled over varying periods of time.
Formulas are usually closely guarded
family trade secrets. Traditional
methods of heating involves placing
the stones in ceramic pots heated
over charcoal fire. A team of men
will take turns blowing air through
a bamboo tube to the charcoal to
generate more heat. As the heat
generated this manner is not very
high and consistent, results may
vary. Modern treaters make use of
sophisticated electric programmable
furnaces that allows them to control
not only the exact duration the
stones are to be heated, but also the
environment they are heated in to
obtain the desired results.
Other forms of treatment include
surface diffusion, fracture filling,
coating and dyeing. Diffusion
treatments involves the addition of
compounds to the sapphire during
the heating process. Usually, the
sapphires are heated to near
their melting point. This allows the
compound to enter the stone and
enhance its colour. However, this
penetration rate of these compounds
is very shallow and is confined to
less than 0.5mm from the surface of
the stone.
Slight polishing of the stones usually
reviews the actual colour of the stone.
A somewhat controversial method
that was accidentally discovered
in the middle of 2001 involves the
introduction of beryllium into low quality
Madagascan sapphires. The results
were brightly and intensely coloured
yellow, orange and the very much
sought after padparadscha sapphires.
Advances in technology and methods
has allowed many more colours of
sapphires to be treated this way.
SAPPHIRES COME
IN ALMOST EVERY
COLOUR OF THE
RAINBOW.
Synthetics and Imitations
Synthetic sapphires have been
manufactured as early as the early
1900s. The most common method
used to produce synthetics is the
flame fusion technique. This method
produces sapphires quickly and
inexpensively. Other methods used
to create corundum includes
glowing them in flux solutions,
pulling and hydrothermal.
Synthetic sapphires are often used
to make affordable and low cost
jewellery. They are also used
extensively in other industries,
such as the manufacture of lasers
and sapphire glass.
Common imitations of sapphires
are glass, doublets comprising
of low cost green natural sapphires
for the crown and synthetic
sapphire for the pavilion,
synthetic spinels and plastics.
Conclusion
most beautiful gemstones in
the world. For this love affair to
last and grow, traders need
to be honest and sincere
when dealing with them. With
technological advanced
comes new and more
innovative methods to treat
gemstones. There is, therefore,
a need to fully disclose all
treatments that had been
done to a gemstone to
the consumer.
THERE IS, THEREFORE,
A NEED TO FULLY
DISCLOSE ALL
TREATMENTS THAT
HAD BEEN DONE
TO A GEMSTONE TO
THE CONSUMER.
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